Crédit photo: Hynd Mezaguer
Il y a un mois de cela nous vous présentions la nouvelle mouture du porte-drapeau d’adidas dans les années 90, l’EQT nouvelle version. En 1991, le slogan de la collection etait “Everything that is essential, nothing that is not”, l’idee etait de repenser la construction des chaussures en se concentrant uniquement sur les elements indispensables a la performance. Un concept visionnaire pour son époque mais totalement d’actualite aujourd’hui. La version 2017 pousse le concept dans les extremes. Toujours reconnaissable du premier coup d’oeil en dépit des modifications dernier cri comme le remplacement de la couleur mythique “Turbo Green” et l’apparition de la technologie Boost, Primeknit et j’en passe.
A l’occasion de cette sortie, la marque Allemande a invité le gratin média et retailers européens a l’EQT Loft, une installation 3 étages dans le centre de Berlin. Nous avons eu la chance de nous entretenir Torben Schumacher , le vice président produit d’adidas originals, bref, l’homme qui se cache derrière les succès d’Adidas ces 3 dernière années. Au cours de cet entretien il est revenu avec nous sur le chemin parcouru par Adidas et l’EQT des temps moderne.
What is it exactly that you do?
Product strategy is the name. Basically, we are taking the past to imagine what the future might look like. Another of our techniques is taking archives and using them to create modern products.
Last Time we sat down was for ZX flux launch, it is so close and so far in term of products. You have made yourself a specialty to take iconic products, strip them and turn them Into new thing? ZX, nmd and now eqt.
We have been a long way since ZX flux but I have to admit it is the same concept strip an iconic piece down to the essentials granted with cutting edge materials. As I said one of our techniques is taking archives and using them to create modern products. We show the heritage of the brand yet staying active by connecting to the new generation. We are more than a retro brand, culture is a big part of our identity.
Why EQT among all your archives?
EQT statement was kind a like the same back in the days, which is back to the essentials. Plus it is an iconic piece especially among collectors. We wanted to push the concept to its limits. Finally, EQT represents the tipping point of a new era for the brand, its rebirth after years of struggle.
EQT was one of the original 5 items of adidas Originals. Did you already have an esthetic point of view in this no bullshit design?
It was an important era for the brand and it was something new. Clearly, EQT is one of the most important product of the brand because it stood for a change, for a bold new beginning. We want to bring it back, but time has to be right, has to feel right. I’m not sure the statement « one of the original 5 » is correct. I think it was an ambition at the time to come out with something that will go through the age of time and be iconic. Now we hoped these items will be pick up in 10, 20 years time.
While defining the concept, have you thought about the fact that EQT is the most recognizable franchise is sport History ? (Not Stan Smith nor all star). Gary said it was too far ahead, too tech saavy in his Time? Don’t you think the same way too?
It was so disruptive and so bold. You get people who love it and people who don’t. But you won’t have people feelingless. Anyways it starts a conversation.
Where did all the green go? You said it just stands out but the decision making takes years, are you sure there is nothing more that à good looking standpoint?
Turbo red, was a long debate, you can imagine. The archives serve as inspiration and you go back and look at those designs that define them and wonder why they have picked that one colour, green of all colors? It was also important to write the next chapter, respect the heritage, live up to the key designs trends but also imagine something new that connect to the new generation. Bridge between the old guys like Marc from Overkill who celebrates the archives and find a credible way to extend to the new guys.
We thought « Turbo red » fitted nicely to today’s lifestyle, I’d love to give a more scientific answer but essentially we felt it works best to the design.
What exciting project are you working on right now?
I can only tell you there is lot more on the way, this is only the beginning. Wait and see
Usually you slipped a clue in the previous collection, right? You did it with EQT
That’s a good hunch